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Lucca

Lucca is the capital of the province of the same name in northwestern Tuscany. With approximately 85,000 inhabitants, Lucca is situated in a broad alluvial plain, 19 meters above sea level, near the Serchio River, between the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines, the Tyrrhenian Coast and the Pisan hills. It is an important city for art and traditional culture, presenting a vital historic center of extraordinary value, which has conserved almost intact the thick urban network of houses, towers, medieval churches, Renaissance palaces and 19th-century piazzas. Lucca today is a flowering commercial and industrial center and an important area for the paper, chemical, metal mechanic, textile and agricultural (olive and wine) industries.

Historical information

Lucca, visited by the Ligurians and the Etruscans, became a colony in 180 A.D., and then a flowering Roman town (89 A.D.) in the 2nd to 8th centuries. It was the capital of the Lungobard Duchy of Tuscia. The conversion of the Lungobards to Catholicism manifested itself in the construction of many churches, from late Romanesque times up to the present. Lucca is called, in fact, “the city of 100 churches.” It became a free commune in 1162. In the 13th to the 14th centuries, it reached its period of maximum splendor, thanks to the imperial privilege of stamping money, to its intense mercantile and banking activity, and above all to processing and trading of the precious silk that was exported to markets all over Europe. The battles with neighboring Pisa and Florence for the control of transportation routes in the 12th to 15th centuries more than once necessitated the rebuilding of the walls. From the 16th century on, the city was a free oligarchic republic. In 1805, Napoleon made Lucca a principality, granting authority to his sister Elisa Bonaparte in Baciocchi. Elisa governed up to 1814, carrying out grandiose public works and making many radical modifications to the city’s appearance. After the Restoration, Maria Luisa di Borbone, who with her son Carlo Ludovico was distinguished for having built a new aqueduct, renewed the reforming criteria of the Baciocchi. In 1847, the city became part of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany, and then in 1860 it joined the Kingdom of Italy.

How to arrive

By car
Highway A11 from Bologna - Florence
Highway A12 from Livorno – Genoa
A1 Aurelia and then SS12 from Abetone and the Brennero: from the Tyrhennian Coast

By train
The rail links follow the main routes of the highways: principle connections are with Viareggio, Pisa, Florence, Pistoia, Aulla.

By plane
The nearest airport, well connected to Lucca via the local train line, is the Galilei International Airport in Pisa. For information about flights, phone 050/500707.

How to get around

By car
The historic center (zone of limited traffic) is closed to private vehicles. The best way to visit Lucca is in fact by foot. There are many parking places located near principal access routes and public transport facilities: to the west, that of Tagliate and Palatucci; to the south, that of Viale Carducci; to the east, that of Caserma Mazzini.

Public transport
The CLAP association (ticket and information office, tel. 0583/587897) offers a good service of urban shuttle buses, which connects the entire city to the parking areas and the suburbs. There are also buses for the extra-urban areas. Tickets are valid for a single trip and can be purchased at any authorized vendor.

By taxi
Piazza Napoleone – tel. 0583/316041
Railway Station – tel. 0583/494989
Piazzale Verdi – tel. 0583/581305
Piazza S. Maria – 0583/494190
Hospital – 0583/950623

By bicycle
The most comfortable and enjoyable way to visit this city “made to the measure of man” is surely the bicycle, which can be rented in various places: in the Casermetta S. Donato – urban wall; in Piazza S. Maria; in via Anfiteatro.

Useful numbers

Tourist information
C.A.T. (Tourist Information Office)
Piazzale S. Donato - tel. 0583/583150 – 442944

APT _ Information and tourist reception
Piazza S. Maria, 35 – tel. 0583/91991

APT, Agency for the Promotion of Tourism in Lucca and Province
Cortile Carrara, 2 - tel. 0583/4171 – 91991

Useful numbers:
Carabinieri: 112
Emergency: 113
Fire department: 115
Urban police: 0583/442727
Doctor on call: 118
Road Assistance: 116
Railways station, Piazza Ricasoli Tel. 0583/467013; Italian Railway Call Center Tel. 892021

Food

The expression of a simple and plain country tradition, Lucca’s cooking maintains the substantial and flavorful character of its past. Rich in fantasy in its approach to old flavours and to the use of genuine primary materials, it is distinguished by its use of local vegetables and aromatic herbs in every dish. Together with mushrooms, these take a primary role. Among first dishes, minestrone made in the rural tradition is outstanding, as are vegetable soup “alla frantoia” (“of the olive mill”), farro (“spelt”) and bean soups, and “farinata” made with vegetables and corn flour. One of the richest first dishes is “tordelli lucchesi” with ragu sauce, served on festive and holiday occasions. Veal was once considered a dish for gentlemen. The more well known common dishes are in fact based on pork and poultry (pork roasted on the grill or with aromatic herbs, rabbit “cacciatore” with olives, chicken “al mattone”, and fried chicken with fried vegetables). Cooking based on river fish such as stewed Serchio eel, Garfagnana trout and baked mullet, or humble, flavorful baccala (cod) roasted with chickpeas or stewed with leeks, is also typical.

Shopping

Strolling along the shady downtown streets, one can breath the true atmosphere of Lucca and the reserved but courteous character of the Lucchese. In the narrow streets, lined with ancient shops and artisans’ studios, the daily life of the city is swarming, hard working and lively.
Besides products of local manufacture (textiles, ceramics, shoes), Lucca is worth visiting for its typical food products (olive oil, wine, farro, porcini mushrooms). At Prospero, an extremely ancient and typical grain shop, there is a stupefying variety of local legumes. Traditional pastry shops and bakeries, present in every corner of the city, offer the simple sweets of the past, like the famous Buccellato, extremely old sweet bread, flavoured with anise and raisins. At the ancient Massagli Pharmacy, one can taste the Elixir of China (created in 1855) and the original Biadina of Lucca, a secret mixture of liquors served with pine nuts. In Via Fillungo, there are many Liberty-style shops with handmade jewelry, some of which specialize in vintage jewelry. Of the many historic cafes, the ancient literary café called De Simo, daily destination of famous personalities like Giacomo Puccini and Giovanni Pascoli. In the romantic tea salons, splendidly preserved in Liberty-style, one can breathe the atmosphere of the past and taste refined pastries. We suggest, finally, a visit to the charming via del Battistero, to see the splendid shop windows of the antique dealers.

Market (clothes, shoes, fabrics, used and housewares), via dello Stadio; every Wednesday and Saturday morning.
Antiques Market, Piazza S. Martino and surrounding; every third weekend

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